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Water Heater Leaking: Shut Off Water and Power, Then Call

Leaks come from the tank body, fittings, the drain valve, or the temperature-and-pressure (T&P) relief line. Pooling water, continuous T&P discharge, rusty water at the tank, or water near electrical connections means you act now.

Do this first

  1. Electric: Kill power at the water-heater breaker before you touch anything else. Energy.gov / Building America drain guidance: shut off power before draining; never power an empty electric tank.
  2. Gas: Smell gas? Leave the building and call PSE or 911. Do not troubleshoot. No gas smell and you are comfortable with the label? Set the control toward OFF or pilot only as the label shows.
  3. Close the cold-water supply valve above the tank. Use the main shutoff if that local valve is missing.
  4. Contain the water. Stay out of puddles near live power. Red Cross still applies if supply piping is damaged: shut the main (Red Cross utilities).

Tank-body or bottom-seam leaks usually mean end-of-life replacement. Fitting leaks can be repairable. Skip price guesses; get a licensed plumber on site.

When to call a plumber

Call for active pooling, continuous T&P discharge, water near electrical connections, or any gas smell near a gas heater (utility first on gas odor; see /gas-leak/).

Call a listed shop

Call a listed shop from this directory. Phones are locked from the harvest. Confirm yourself before you hire.

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